![]() Otherwise, find someone who has maybe tinkered inside of a G29 to help you. ![]() Not the best options, but maybe a short term work around so the issue goes away. So when you are stepping lightly on brake(or when full throttle from what you mentioned), it'll count as not being pressed at all. If you can set/detect neutral for your pedal in software, press the brake pedal down slightly and set as neutral. So it will take more effort on the pedal to get the brakes going, as a downside.Īnother similar option I've seen suggested, is in the calibration settings for your brake pedal. Which means lighter presses on the brake won't activate it. (you're not really fixing the issue, just getting around it for now)įrom your description about full throttle, it could help to set up a deadzone for the brake. I own the G25, but maybe try the software/calibration settings as a band-aid fix. Sounds like a physical/internal issue, I don't know how to fix that. When I'm pushing full throttle, the brake pushes itself a bit and that makes the car slower while in games. P.S: Please forgive me if I went a bit OT.Hi! Recently my Logitech g29 pedals started to show some problems. It mostly makes a racing Game out of the original, hence how many people drive in Multiplayer, and that just kills the attraction for me.īut I will keep my eye on the Multiplayer. Plus, not sure if a Multiplayer is a good idea, when the original Game is a simulator. If that would be different, who knows, i might be interested more. Plus, without AI traffic (although them often also being a pain in the ***), i find it somewhat less appealing. ![]() I tried Multiplayer once, but as shown in most Videos on Youtube, and please dont take that personally to anyone here, too many drivers just behave like idiots and make the enjoyment a very short one. Strange, considering its technically the newer Game, yet it seems not so good working as ETS2. Which is strange, and also sad, because I really prefer ATS. However, still FFB doesnt work as good in ATS with this Steering Wheel as it does on ETS2. As it turns out, it was simply a case of setting all to default and setting the axxises again manually. Thank you very much, guys, for all your help. I suppose I only would need the others if I would also use a shifter, correct ? On the first, I chose Keyboard + Logitech G920 Steering wheel. On the top of the Controls settings, there is like 3 pulldown menus. I drive automatic (please spare me the comments about that. So whats up with that ? Does anyone of you use a Logitech G920 and can show me pictures of his or her settings, so I can see what I maybe did wrong or what to setup different ? Btw, I dont have the shifter, i dont do that. Wtf is going on there ? I was hoping to blame that maybe on the Steering wheel, but it doesnt happen with other Games. And if i got to what it was set to when I get into that part of the Settings, its that the Brake bar (orange) is fully in, and only if I press the acceleration pedal now, the orange bar goes away from the brake and goes to acceleration. When I set the Brake Axxis to CENTERED, what it does is that as soon as I press the Accelerate pedal, both orange bars go forward. The Acceleration Axxis is set to INVERTED & CENTERED and works fine that way, but not with the Brake Axxis. When I was got into Settings, it was set to CENTERED.
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